Exposure refers to the amount of light
that hits the film or sensor in your camera.
The camera is a lightproof box and can be split into two parts: the
camera body and camera lens.
Camera Body:
Shutter
Image Sensor
LCD Screen
Camera Lens:
Aperture/Iris
Shutter speedand aperture (Iris) are the only two camera settings that actually impact an image's
"luminous exposure." The brightness of your photos is also influenced by
the third setting, cameraISO.
the lower the f-number is, the larger the lens opening.
Fig. 1.1.1 Correlation between f-number and size of lens
opening.
SHUTTER:
a tiny plastic sheet that can be opened and closed to let light onto or
block light from the film;
the speed of which it opens is referred to as
Shutter Speed;
measured in second.
E.g. 1/1000s, 1/500s, 1/250s, 1/125s, 1/60s, 1/30s, 1/15s, 1/8s, 1/4s,
1/2 s, 1s, 2s, 3s…
Fig. 1.1.2 Illustration to demonstrate different shutter
speeds.
ISO:
originally referred to as the light gathering ability of the camera;
however,
digitally, it is referred to as the signal gain of the camera's
sensor;
Camera ISO settings that are commonly used are 100, 200, 400, 640, 800,
1600, 3200, 6400;
the lower the ISO, the less sensitive the camera is to light and the
finer the grain
Fig 1.1.3 How ISO affects grain.
Fig. 1.1.4 How ISO affects light sensitivity.
Lens Perspective
There are three important types lens: standard,
wide angle and tele lens.
Fig 1.1.5 Different lenses and their focal length and photography
type.
Different lenses serve different functions and are made for different uses.
FOCAL LENGTH is a classification system for lenses.
FOCAL LENGTH:
the distance, measured in millimeters, between a camera's sensor and
optical center;
the shorter the focal length, the wider the angle of view
Fig 1.1.6 The shorter the focal length, the wider the
angle of view.
DEPTH OF FIELD:
the proportion of the image that is sharp and focusable, based on the
camera's aperture;
the smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field
Fig 1.1.7 Illustration on depth of field.
Wide-angle lens are ideally used when wanting to
fit a large area into the frame.
Applications: Landscape photography, street photography.
Fig 1.1.8 Wide-angle lens.
Standard lens are great for an accurate
depiction of what a person sees, both angle and perspective.
Applications: More natural-looking photography.
Fig 1.1.9 Standard lens.
Tele lens are useful when you want to
isolate a subject that's far away.
Applications: Nature documentaries.
Fig 1.1.9 Tele lens.
Lecture 6: Poster Design
There are 7 principles in poster design:
Emphasis : one element must be the background for another element to stand out. For there to be any visual hierarchy in your design, certain aspects must be more important than others.
Balance : refers to how how visual components are positioned to create a composition that appears to have features that harmonise together and whose visual weight balances with the other components in the design.
Contrast : helps your design's elements stand out from one another. For your elements to be readable and function well together, your background color needs to be substantially distinct from the colors of your elements.
Repetition : to create a sense of consistency. It's employed to attain originality and consistency. The concept of design repetition essentially refers to the full or partial reuse of graphic elements.
Proportion : the apparent weight and size of the components of a composition, as well as their interrelationships, are known as proportion. Approaching your design in segments rather than as a whole can usually help.
Movement : controlling the elements in a composition to guide the viewer's eye from one to the next and effectively convey information to your audience.
White Space : the blank space on your website that surrounds the composition's elements is known as white space.
Fig 1.1.10 Example of Repetition in design.
Fig 1.1.11 Example of White Space in design.
1.2 Class Summaries
Week 6 :
We got to finish our Hearst Mansion Part of the project with Feedback from Sir Fauzi. Then we got to see a demo from Sir Fauzi on how to start colouring our Black and White photos!
Week 7 :
We showed Sir Fauzi our finalised colourisations and got a thumbs up to finalise our Project 1B! We then were briefed a bit on our Project 2A.
2. INSTRUCTIONS
File 2.1 Module Information Booklet
3. HEARST MANSION
3.1 Research
Usually when I'm stuck in the rabbit-hole of watching YouTube Shorts or
TikTok or Reels, I get a lot of Photoshop videos recommended to me. Most of
which, actually relate to the current assignments I'm doing!
Video 3.1.1 "Things people paid me to photoshop (Wedding
Edition)" by sarasnapshots.
For example, the video above shows many examples of photoshopping people in
AND out of a photo. In the 4th wedding picture, you can see Sara editing a
picture of the family from inside into a picture of the wedding outside and
she actually made it look very convincing!
Another good video:
Video 3.1.2 "Photoshop but you can't tell the difference" by
sarasnapshots.
In this one, she flawlessly photoshops people in and out of photos despite the
photos' quality and lighting.
3.2 Ideation
Part 1: Shazam!
We were provided with two photos for this part; one of the
Hearst Mansion and one of the Shazam movie poster. We were instructed to photoshop Shazam into
the Hearst Mansion convincingly.
Following closely to the tutorial slides, I started creating my
picture.
Fig. 3.2.1 Shazam! Progress #1
I cropped out Shazam by using the Quick Selection tool and set a clipping mask
onto the selection and Shazam.
Fig. 3.2.2 Shazam! Progress #2
I placed Shazam into the Hearst Mansion image; I put him next to a pillar near
the one of the lamps and made it look like he was leaning against it.
Fig. 3.2.3 Shazam! Progress #3
Then, I played around with the adjustment layers, making sure Shazam had a
blueish hue to him so that he could blend with the surrounding
lighting.
Fig. 3.2.4 Shazam! Progress #4
I added pattern overlay onto Shazam; the pattern was Noise and I played with
the blending modes to see what fitted better. In the end, I went for Color
Burn with a 48% opacity.
Fig. 3.2.5 Shazam! Progress #5
I added shadows behind Shazam as instructed, but I also added slight more
depth into the shadow where his shadow follows behind him rather than beside
him; this also added more interaction from the shadow to the walls and
floor.
Fig. 3.2.6 Shazam! Progress #6
I duplicated Shazam and flipped him to be under the original Shazam. I
noticed in the tutorial that it didn't include duplicating the shadow, but I
decided to do so because it looked more natural to me. Then, I adjusted the
Hue/Saturation of the reflection to be a more blue hue and darker to match
the tone of the other water reflections.
Fig. 3.2.7 Shazam! Progress #7
Due to having problems using Photoshop on my laptop, I resorted to using
Photoshop on my iPad. The interface was different and a few of the features
on laptop were missing on iPad. I had to improvise the wavy look on
the reflection by using the Smudge tool. I quite liked the effect even
though it wasn't as instructed by the tutorial.
Part 2: Qistina! (Hearst Mansion with my own photo)
For this, I basically repeated the process from 'Shazam!' but now with my
own photo.
The funny thing was that I didn't have a proper place to really take photos
so I had to improvise and take a photo inside my room whilst standing on my
chair :')
Fig. 3.2.8 The photo I chose to edit (Please excuse the
mess)
Anyways though, I used the 'Select Subject' tool on this photo since it's
quite busy. After that, as I said, the process was basically the same.
3.3 Final Outcome
Fig. 3.2.9 Shazam! Final (JPEG)
Fig. 3.2.10 Qistina! Final (JPEG)
4. RECOLOURING BLACK AND WHITE
4.1 Research
I decided to go for the old reliable YouTube for inspiration after
classes just so I could squeeze in as many lessons into my brain about
recolouring monotone photos. Here are some videos I watched:
Video 4.1.1 "How obsessive artists colorize old photos"
by Vox.
Video 4.1.2 "Colorize Black and White with Realism in
Photoshop" by PiXimperfect.
4.2 Ideation & Final Outcome
Exercise 1
For exercise 1, we had to follow the given practical's instructions. I
followed step-by-step and added my own flare to the colourisation. Like
changing the colours and adding different hues of red along the cheek area
and ear (basically area with most blood flow realistically) just to seem
more realistic. I don't feel that a whole process for this is that necessary
since I only followed the instructions and not much more so I'd be repeating
myself really.
Fig. 4.2.1 Exercise 1 - Before
Fig. 4.2.2 Exercise 1 - After
Exercise 2: Part 1
Similar to Exercise 1, I had to follow the instructions given in the
practical slides for this one as well. The thing I really added that changed
from the slides were the choice of colours as well as the added makeup
(eyeshadow and lipstick). Again, I feel like it's unnecessary to repeat the
process from the practical slides so I'll leave this here.
Fig. 4.2.3 Adding make-up to the model.
Fig. 4.2.4 Exercise 2: Part 1 - Before
Fig. 4.2.4 Exercise 2: Part 1 - After
Exercise 2: Part 2
Unlike the previous two, Exercise 2: Part 2 was more as an extra exercise
for us to do where we had creative freedom on how to colourise the photo.
I'll show the process of this one since all of the steps came from myself
(from what I learned the past 2 colourisations of course).
We were given a lot of options to choose from a google drive folder and I
decided to choose a photo of Adut Akech :D She is a South
Sudanese-Australian model.
Fig. 4.2.5 Exercise 2: Part 2 Progress #1
I started by blocking out her skin and hair. I wanted to stay as close as
possible as I could to her dark skin tone so I chose a dark rich brown as the
base. Of course, I had to add different hues of it around the face to give a
more realistic look.
Fig. 4.2.6 Exercise 2: Part 2 Progress #2
I added lipstick with highlights to add a bit of flare and depth. I also
started colouring her hair as a dark red using a Multiply layer. It might
not that noticeable but the subtleness adds to the beauty :D
Fig. 4.2.7 Exercise 2: Part 2 Progress #3
I added more highlights especially on the parts where light clearly shines
on her face. Additionally, I added colour to her earrings and also her eyes
since the sclera (white part of eye) isn't perfectly white.
As you could also see, I added colour to her shirt and also the background.
I chose yellow/orange for the shirt since I think it complimented Adut's
skin tone. As for the background, I made it a muted light blue to create a
good contrast between her and the background.
Fig. 4.2.8 Exercise 2: Part 2 Progress #4
I added a light source using Soft Light as the top right and also created
shadows to the left side of Adut.
Fig. 4.2.9 Exercise 2: Part 2 Progress #5
Some finishing touches... and done!
Fig. 4.2.10 Exercise 2: Part 2 - Before
Fig. 4.2.10 Exercise 2: Part 2 - After
5. REFLECTION
Regarding the first part of the project, Hearst Mansion, I remember having fun just making sure the characters (Shazam and me) fit into the cool Hearst mansion! Especially the part where I had to create the wavy reflections in the water because it just added that slight "oomph!" to the picture.
I'd like to say though, I had the most fun colouring the black and white photos! Being able to bring life to the three monotone photos was an experience was me because I was always interested in doing these types of "art restoration" things. Adding the final highlights really made the photos pop up more! I loved the creative freedom I had with Exercise 2: Part 2 but I loved the vibrancy I achieved with the previous two :)
Aside from the exercises, I loved looking at how differently my classmates coloured the first two photos and seeing how they interpreted and executed their works!
Comments
Post a Comment